Random Japan

I’m a big fan of the random bar names in Tokyo.  I pass this one all the time when I’m out on walks with Hurley.

Slice Of Awesome

Frijoles!

My culinary life in Tokyo has taken a sudden and dramatic turn.  It would appear that the food gods heard my repeated questioning of why a city with a food obsession as intense as Tokyo doesn’t have a good, reliable Mexican food option.  Not even a quick burrito joint!  Indeed, I’ve wondered aloud on many occasions why a place like Chipotle doesn’t exist here, particularly given the Japanese willingness to experiment with different foods and their manic focus on fresh, quality ingredients.

Well, sure as shit, this past November a little spot called Frijoles opened up just down the street from us.  And – in a total alignment of the planets moment – it’s modeled exactly after Chipotle!  From the ambiance, ordering process, carnitas/chicken/steak/veggie options, multiple salsa choices, bottled beers, even the color scheme of the menu.  I tried a carnitas burrito tonight for my first taste and found it to be quite tasty, though certainly nothing like the real thing.  The chips were not of the tortilla sort, which was kinda weird, but they tasted strangely good nonetheless.  And the mild salsa they include for dipping consists solely of chunks of tomato and onion, so they haven’t quite mastered that element yet.  Still, it’ll be good enough for an easy lunch option on a lazy Sunday afternoon, which is just fine by me.  Who knows if this place will even last, but they can count on having at least one expat regular!

By the way, a careful reading of the Frijoles philosophy makes for a fun glimpse into the awkward wording that often arises when the Japanese attempt to translate their words into English:

We believe in serving real great-tasting food which you may usually enjoy at fine dining, in casual environment.  We prepare our food with gas stove, pots and pans, knife and other kitchen utensil, refrigerator stocked with a various fresh ingredients, herbs and spices, and dry goods.  Ingredients we use include marinated chicken and steaks, carnitas (seasoned and braised pork), pinto and black beans and more.  And a majority of our food is prepared from scratch in our restaurant, not simply reheated and slapped together to order.  We do all of these because we believe food tastes much better when we make it this way.

Slice Of Awesome

The Sun Sets In Phuket

Sadly, today marks our final day in Phuket.  We leave tomorrow for Singapore, where I have class and where Lizzi gets to take in another country while mingling with some of my B-school buds.   The unfortunate reality of our departure was made sweeter by the fact that I awoke to two bits of good news this morning.  First, Pete Carroll appears headed to the Seattle Seahawks, which opens the door for ND to pick off some of USC’s commits.  It could also portend a halt to Trojan dominance in the ND-USC series, an annual given with which I’ve grown immensely tired.  The second bit of good news involved the esteemed Peter King of CNNSi predicting a Super Bowl victory for the Dallas Cowboys this year.  In the immortal words of Lloyd Christmas, “Mmm….that sounds good.  I’ll have that.”

In a break from the past few days, there’s nary a cloud in sight, which allows me to look upon a wonderfully blue ocean as I sit barside “studying”.  I use parentheses because I’m very obviously not studying for the final exams I have on Monday, exams for which I feel woefully under-prepared.  Alas, it’s holiday, so I reserve the right to procrastinate.  Implications be damned!

Meanwhile, Lizzi is perched on a pool chair, devouring Dan Brown’s The Lost Symbol and exposing her porcelain skin to the sun’s laser beams.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, we are by far the whitest folks here, and Lizzi lying out like so makes me nervous for the incoming aircraft that can be easily spotted just to the south of Mai Khao beach.  I’ve got to imagine that the reflection she is creating for those poor pilots is making for quite the navigational challenge.

I’ve discovered two personal heroes during our brief stay on this little resort.  The first one is an Israeli guy, the same one I referenced in my previous post as the cigar smoker.  He’s got an interesting little family – a pretty wife (who’s Slovakian), a cute daughter, and an awkward little boy.  I just like his style…he’s got a cool way about him.  I saw him kicking a soccer ball with his daughter and it became clear quickly that he’s had some real experience with the sport.  He swam every morning before retiring to a chair for some rays and reading.  He’d enjoy a late lunch with his family, taking down some champagne and a cigar along the way.  He laughed a lot and tanned easily, two attributes that make life taste a little better.  The family left yesterday after a solid ten days here, making their way back to the cold of Vienna, Austria.  Very cool, indeed.

My other hero is a Russian guy who impresses me with his insatiable appetite.  I’ve only had occasion to observe him at breakfast, but it’s quite the sight to behold.  The man destroys food, taking down plates of bananas like pistachio nuts and pounding jars of yogurt like they’re shots of lukewarm water.  More impressive, though, is the fact that I watched him follow a feast of bread, fruit and yogurt with a solid helping of steak and eggs – and a Corona!  All at 8 AM.  Well done, sir.  Well done.

Speaking of Russians, we’ve got a lot of menacing-looking Eastern European types on our resort.  So in addition to affording me an occasional peek at a topless sunbather, it also means that our Sala crew would be in good shape if we found ourselves at war with a neighboring resort.  You never know, these things could happen.  And I’m restful in the notion that we’d be well-equipped to not only defend ourselves but to launch some pretty effective offensive maneuvers as well.  I’d try to make myself responsible for providing strategic guidance while delegating the duties of hand-to-hand combat and lifting of large objects to my Eastern European comrades.  Now that, my friends, is a recipe for success!

I’m gonna go finish my book now, er, study.  The book I’m reading is a collection of short stories called In Other Rooms, Other Wonders by the Pakistani author Daniyal Mueenuddin.  It’s a mesmerizing look into another culture, laying bare the feudalistic impulses of Pakistan while simultaneously capturing the myriad nuances that comprise the human condition.  Not only has it been heaped with critical acclaim, but I was happy to learn that one of my favorite voices, Garrison Keillor, absorbed the book during his own winter vacation, so wonderfully captured in his recent Salon piece.

Vacation cruises are advertised as luxurious journeys to exotic places, but a chief pleasure is the reading of books and another is making small talk with strangers. On steamer chairs topside or poolside, in the lounges, everywhere you see men and women with their noses in books, devouring them for hours. The Book: Man’s Chief Weapon Against Tedium. Woman’s, too. I read a book of stories by a young Pakistani writer, Daniyal Mueenuddin, and found it riveting, the most wonderful thing I’d read in a long, long time, thanks to the freedom of being at sea, away from CNN and NPR and Google, out in a vast silence in which the details of Pakistani village life loom large, as if one were actually there, sipping sweet tea with Saleema and Husad and Mr. K.K. Harouni.

I should be signing off now.  There remains work to be done before we head off to Patong Beach tonight.  It’s about an hour’s drive from our resort and is said to be the epicenter of the Phuket experience.  We’ve got a 6:30 PM dinner reservation at Baan Rim Pa, and we’ve requested a good view so I’m hoping we catch a nice shot of the sunset as we nibble on Pad Si Ew Nua and sip Phuket Beer.  Afterwards, we plan to tackle the horde of street vendors for trinkets to bring home with us, where I’m sure we’ll be able to haggle until our hearts’ delight, negotiations that will stay with us as we settle on a taxi to take us home.

Holiday in Phuket

One of the true pleasures in life is that point during one’s vacation when nothingness becomes not only a reality, but something for which to strive.  By nothingness I’m speaking strictly in the scheduling sense.  That is, assuming the objective of one’s vacation is some good old R&R, it is not just OK but probably encouraged for that vacationer to keep the schedule as blank a slate as possible.  And so I awoke bright and early today – 4 AM to be exact, thank you jetlag – and took a moment to revel in the notion that I had absolutely nothing to do today.  Knowing that my biggest decisions would revolve around where to set up our leisurely camp for the day and what to order from the cheery wait staff is an incredibly liberating experience.  And now, as I sit with my laptop looking out onto the ocean from the comfy confines of the Sala Resort in Phuket, I’m grappling with the question of how early is too early to begin imbibing when on vacation.  It’s 9 AM local time, which sounds about right for a Bloody Mary.  It’ll probably come with an extra kick, this being Thailand and all, which is just fine by me.  The bottom line is I want a drink.  And because I’m American, make it fast since we all know that patience isn’t necessarily a national virtue.

Speaking of national character, I like to observe the behavior of folks from different countries when on vacations like this one.  There must be a saying somewhere that ties the way one relaxes to their truest selves.  If there isn’t such a saying, let the record show that there should be one.  I’ve noticed that Western Europeans are pretty laid back.  In addition to making Lizzi and me feel paler than Casper the Friendly Ghost, they do a wonderful job of enjoying their vacation.  You can just see it.  They like to eat, drink, swim, and be merry.  Maybe they’re so good at vacation because they get lots of practice, to which I say good on them.  Plus, they’re very secure with their bodies and happily don the most unflattering of swimwear as proof.  Again I say good on them.  They enjoy downtime the way it should be enjoyed, and we can all learn a little something from that.  In fact, I’ve found their approach to leisure somewhat infectious.  A guy was enjoying a cigar at a table behind us last night while sipping on champagne with his wife.  Rather than getting annoyed at the stench wafting our way, I instead smiled at the realization that he was European, which made it all OK.  At least in my book it did.  And Lizzi was actually compelled to say that she enjoyed the smell of his cigar, which is an olfactory impossibility as far as she’s concerned.  Thusly, I can only conclude that she too had her senses manipulated by the fact that it was a European smoking that cigar and no one else.

I’ve also had occasion to observe my fair share of Russians.  This is a stoic lot, rarely exhibiting any form of emotion or sound.  Conversations seem to be largely comprised of long moments of silence punctuated by periodic grunts and piercing stares of indifference.  And these people can put down food with the best of them, evidenced by the gorgefest I witnessed this morning at breakfast as well as the beach ball some Russian men carry in their stomachs.  No he’s not dressing his toast with a glop of butter the size of a trifold wallet!  Yes, yes he is.  And he’s got an extra three plates of lard that await his expert hand.  I’ve heard that some cultures in the world place a social premium on the chub.  In China, for example, a round belly signifies wealth.  And the wife of a skinny man in Italy is shunned as a bad cook.  There must be a similar phenomenon at work in Russia.

With all this talk about weight, I must say that the Europeans wear their fat well.  Back home in the U.S., fat tends to roll off in various parts – over the waist, under the arms, beneath the chin.  But Europeans appear to be much better proportioned.  The fat simply appears to be more evenly distributed.  And their skin looks more inelastic than ours, making it less accommodating to the fat itself, offering it little place to go.  So instead of the skin giving way to the excess lard, the skin of Europeans seems to be pulled tighter as if it is designed specifically to keep the fat from breaking loose.  It’s kind of like an armor that keeps the fat in.

I had this romantic notion to jog on the beach this morning.  And I did just that…as the sun came up no less.  I’ve heard that jogging on sand is much more challenging than on solid ground, something with which I’m now in total agreement.  It’s particularly hard to gain traction as the sand melts away beneath each step, which no doubt requires more exertion from the muscles.  And the fact that our beach lies at a bit of an angle makes things even more awkward for the joints.  Nonetheless, I enjoyed my early-morning jaunt.  I had fun dancing to avoid the water as it washed up the shore (after all, there are fish in that there ocean), and the sound of the waves crashing behind me sometimes made it feel like I was being chased by some intimidating force of nature.  Every little bit of motivation helps when on the jogging trail to be sure.

As usual, my thoughts wandered as I ran.  Among the things I pondered was the fact that non-Americans refer to vacation as holiday.  Around this time of year, I’m peppered with questions from associates of the international variety asking if I’ll be taking any holiday.  I resisted the urge to adopt the vernacular at first, insisting in my mind that a holiday must exist to celebrate something.  But I now realize that this leisurely activity we call vacation is indeed a celebration of sorts.  It’s celebrating our ability to take a step back from the day-to-day grind and slow things down a bit.  It’s a time to stop and appreciate the little things, a time to reward one’s hard work with a well-earned respite, a time to put away the Blackberry (though I confess to the occasional peek) and reconnect with all that is dear.

I just saw a woman pass by performing the slowest form of running I’ve ever seen.  I didn’t think it was possible to create a happy medium between fast walking and jogging, but she’s apparently managed such a feat.  Ahhh…the joys of holiday.

Checking In

Dear Loyal Readers,

Please accept my sincerest apologies for the little sabbatical I took from Eddyfication.  Lizzi and I have been stateside the past couple weeks and have been occupied with work, family, friends, steak fajitas, football, beers….and more football.  Needless to say, it was great to be back and we very much enjoyed this little slice of Americana.  However, all good things must come to an end and we now find ourselves in the United lounge at O’Hare awaiting our flight back to Asia.  Of course, my anal self got us here a solid three hours before our flight because those freakazoids on TV told us to do so when, in actuality, we breezed through security in record time.  Anyhow, the good news is I’m left with time to catch up on my blogging.  And, better yet, we’re not heading back to Tokyo straightaway.  Instead, we’re off to Bangkok for a couple nights, which will be followed by five nights in Phuket, where I plan to do plenty of blogging from the beach – or from the back of an elephant.  And, lucky us, we got upgraded to first class for our flight out to Tokyo (where we connect to Bangkok), allowing us to feel plenty fancy as we embark on our first real vacation since our honeymoon.

So sit tight and look out for more posts in the near future from Bangkok Dangerous himself.  And keep your fingers crossed that we don’t get to experience one of Thailand’s annual coups or anything else along those lines.

In the meantime, here’s wishing you all a Happy New Year!

Cheers,

Eddy

P.S. Jules, I hope you’re wearing makeup as you read this.  And tell Nick to put down that Xbox controller, grab a Miller Lite, and follow you to the computer so you can spend some time getting acquainted with the brilliant David Thorne.  You can thank me later.

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